It is difficult to know where to start with Ivy & Preppy style due to its unprecedented influence across many decades, eras and adaptations since its introduction in the 1920's. You can find numerous very well-versed books to understand the history of this long lasting trend, so I will try and make this insight a bit more personal.
We can't escape a brief historical introduction, citing its mix of British sportswear and more comfortable casual clothing, which originated on the elite University campuses of Yale, Princeton, Harvard and similar institutions in the 1920's, then becoming a mainstream staple in the 1950's. However, my personal introduction to this style came from my Father. Years before I was even a figment of his imagination, my Dad, like many others; admired American movie stars, jazz musicians, and presidential icons, mainly based on their clothing. During the 1950's and 1960's, there was one shop three towns away in the UK that sold OCBD (Oxford Cloth Button Down) shirts from American brands such as Arrow & Hathaway. I always envied and adopted his mindset for the feeling involved in finding something that is not easily obtainable, something he must have constantly experienced while trying to find Ivy Style in England.
He greatly influenced my appreciation of men's style, leading to many trips to the Ralph Lauren outlet, John Simons on Chiltern street and strolls down Jermyn Street & Savile Row in London to relive his youth in the city.
If we discuss Ralph Lauren as a huge influence on Ivy Style, we must mention Brooks Brothers as arguably even more of a key component to the history of this look. They introduced the OCBD shirt, widely regarded as the ultimate Ivy staple, in 1896. It was made from durable and breathable basket-weave fabric known as Oxford cloth and was ideal for that more casual and active occasion.
Staples that followed and became central to the 'Preppy' scene in the 1950's included the shirts mentioned above (tucked in!), chino/officer pants and deck or boat shoes by brands like Sebago & Seavees. If it were a little cool, consider seersucker or tweed jackets, a single V or Double V college sweatshirt (originating from the military and the navy) and a classic Harrington jacket. Women's Ivy style is also one of my favourite looks: the tweed jacket, pleated shorts, and sweater draped over the shoulder. All are so timeless.
One of my favourite back stories to Ivy style is in the Ametora book (which I highly recommend). It examines the heavy post-WWII influence on young Japanese people and how a style so synonymous with the elite and well-dressed in the USA, was condemned by the more conservative, older Japanese generation. At the time the standard attire was a more traditional black suit, not a gingham shirt.
This brings me to one of the more contentious sides of the style: Elitism. Traditionally, Ivy has always been seen as the uniform of the Elite schools or the Country clubs. What I personally love about its development over the years is the shift from focusing on social status to inclusion. It is my belief that style is not style unless you wear it in a way that makes you feel comfortable.
This may stick close to its era-based origins (which I love) or adapt to suit a more experimental look or feel (which I also love). I have come across many forums where the snobbery of this style has overshadowed the experimental, but my response is always the same. The styles and outfit choices that those people rightly admire, were once experimental themselves.
In more recent years, a resurgence in what is classed as 'True Vintage' has put a huge spotlight on sought after Ivy Style pieces. 1940's Double V-Neck college sweatshirts, 1950's officer pants, 1930's converse and beautiful timepieces. This has introduced this style to a whole new age group and thus increased appreciation for those eras, culminating in quality reproduction brands such as Knickerbocker, Buzz Rickson's, Merz B Schwanen, Buck Mason and J. Press. There has also been a massive renewal in Ralph Lauren, particularly with the younger generation. Social media has played a huge part in that by highlighting old ad campaigns, generational styles and a real appreciation for quality and style; which is fantastic to see in a bid to reduce fast fashion popularity.
There are so many more things to discuss with Ivy Style, but I think its influence on what we all love is so significant that I encourage you to take your own journey into its history (as I'm sure many of you have already done so).
I previously touched upon mine being very closely linked to my Father. We would spend many an evening when I was back at the family home, thumbing through all the publications and 90's GQ magazines he had acquired over the years. Admiring together loafers, tweed blazers and Blues musicians in the most immaculate performing attire. Our joint love for NYC would also spark me into showing him immediately any new spots, new purchases and sneaky photos of well dressed individuals, as he lived vicariously through my frequent trips there in his later years.
On the back of all this, please find below a list of publications that are an amazing insight into this pivotal clothing style:-
- Take Ivy by Shosuke Ishizu and Toshiyuki Kurosu
- Black Ivy by Graham Marsh and Jason Jules
- The Ivy Look: Classical American Clothing by Graham Marsh and J.P. Gaul
- Ametora: How Japan saved American Style by W. David Marx
- Illustrated Ivy by Kazuo Hozumi
